Kevin Kim, a 24-year-old Queens native, gets in his car every week and drives a mile and a half to his local supermarket. It never occurred to him that, despite living in a heavily populated area like New York City, he lives in a food desert. United States Department of Agriculture estimates that 23.5 million Americans are living in a food desert and 750, 000 are New York City residents.
Compared to other boroughs, the Bronx and Brooklyn are especially affected by food deserts. Many residents lack access to supermarkets and access to fresh and healthy foods. The USDA identifies food deserts by two main characteristics: low-income communities and low-access communities, which are commonly found in rural and urban areas. The city has tried to tackle this problem, but they are finding that the problem resides deeper. “Even if they built a super market closer to me,” Kim says, “I’m not sure if what I bought would change.” Food perception and eating habits are a far bigger issue than food deserts alone.
Kim is not the only one who is unaware, however. Gabriel Marrero, a 21-year-old college student, lives in the South Bronx and according to him there are bodegas more or less on every corner and many fast food restaurants but only one or two supermarkets in the area and for most people they are too far to commute to. “These bodegas have basics like milk, eggs and flour but they lack nutrition,” says Marrero. “I think a lot of people overlook that.”
The city implemented initiatives in 2000 to present with hopes reducing and ultimately eliminating food deserts. The former mayor of New York, Bloomberg, sanctioned more Green Carts and made it easier for people to obtain permits, the city opened more supermarkets and tried to create food awareness through posters and television commercials urging residents to watch their sugar intake and choose healthier foods, but their efforts seem to have fallen flat.
Studies have shown that despite efforts and government intervention people are sticking to what they know. Steven Cummins, a National Institute of Health Research Senior Fellow in the Department of Social and Environmental Health Research, released a study that suggests that simply providing access nutritional food does not necessarily solve the problem. Obesity and disease still run rampant through low-income communities. New supermarket locations provided only a moderate change to what people purchased.
Tackling food perception and eating habits is difficult. Aida Jimenez, a 50-year-old administrative assistant, another Bronx native and although does not live in a food desert she did growing up. “My mother tried getting me to eat veggies but I never did. That has a lot to do with why I don’t eat them now.” She said her habits followed her and often passes by the produce section of her local supermarket without picking anything up.
According to Cummins’ study, this is true for most people living in a food desert, despite a supermarket opening up fairly close to them. Complementary policies and social interventions may be needed to “bridge the gap between action and perception.”
As a busy college student, Marrero says he does not have the time to prepare meals so opts for something quicker and easier, usually fast foods. A lot of his food choices are dictated by what is around him but the decision to eat those foods is made because of his lack of time. Both Marrero and Jimenez say their moods often sway their food choices and that usually leads them to eating fattier and unhealthier foods.
The adult obesity rate in New York in 2013 reached 25.4 percent a 4.2 percent jump from 2000. The rise is slowly increasing especially among Blacks and Latinos who have a combined obesity rate of 27.6 percent in New York, which is above the state average. Considering most food deserts in urban areas are comprised of Blacks and Latinos, many aren’t surprised at the percentage.
Another study done by nutritionists and dietetics, Janice Darko and Rickelle Richards conducted focus groups with low-income families whom had at least one child. The hour-long sessions provided insight to shopping habits in low-income families. The findings corroborate with Cummins’ study. It also notes that low-income families shop strategically but their choices boil down to how much money they have to spend. As a result, many buy in bulk or what is on sale and sometimes wind up with food items that do not make a full meal. Darko and Richards state, “Participants reported purchasing more varied foods at the beginning of the month versus more starch-based foods at the end of the month.” Because of this, the study also suggests that economic barriers majorly prevent people from varying their diets. They could not easily purchase healthier foods regardless if they were provided to them or not because of their financial circumstances.
DENNIS NIVAL, A PERSONAL TRAINER IN NYC, GIVES INSIGHT ON HIS EATING HABITS AS AN ADULT LIVING IN A LOW-INCOME AREA
Many initiatives and social reforms are still being implemented today, especially in urban areas. It’s just a matter of gaining interest. Schools are providing healthier choices with more fruits and vegetables on their menus. Urban areas in New York City, for example, are stepping up their agriculture. Many boroughs are forming farming cooperatives as a means to get the community involved and . Farmer’s markets can be found in every borough and some have fairly reasonable prices that residents take advantage of. Rooftop farms in Brooklyn and Manhattan are gaining traction and they are especially successful. A farm in the Bronx, La Finca del Sur, is making headway in the South Bronx community. Most of these initiatives reside in Manhattan yet Brooklyn has recently seen a boom in their urban farming initiatives.
FARMS IN URBAN AREAS OF NEW YORK
There are many barriers preventing low-income families from eating healthier. Pricing, time, location and food perception all affect low-income consumers on a higher scale. Analysts agree that while food deserts are a problem that needs to be dealt with, it is only the first step to stopping obesity. Much of it will have to be a conscious choice of the consumer.