Sun dressed women drink and dance alongside men in summer suits and expensive swim shorts. The live band rocks its own twist to Michael Jackson’s “Wanna Be Startin’ Somethin’”. Servers dish out clams and sandwiches with smiles while speedboats and motorcycle gangs rumble their engines before parking at the party. This is the pier at Claudio’s Clam Bar in the heat of the Long Island summer. Where cocktails clash with clams and couture in celebration of the season.

Claudio’s Clam Bar & Restaurant is the oldest same family owned restaurant in the United States. It stretches out into the Bay from Main Street in Greenport, a small and picturesque fishing town turned tourist escape for wealthy New Yorkers who look to sleep, swim and spend their summer days outside of the Hamptons.

Today, the post-Sandy scene at Claudio’s is more salvage than celebration. Closed for the season with renovations moving along, locals worry that the storm may have pushed the restaurant and its owners past a breaking point.

“I really hope they can come back from this. You won’t see it on the market, but Claudio’s is always up for sale,” says life-long resident and local librarian Poppy Johnson. “If the price is right, of course.”

The past ten years have seen Greenport real estate double, even during a down market. Business owners fight like sharks for a piece of the up-and-coming quiet beach town with Manhattan variety, but most of what makes Greenport so desirable is already in place.

“I’ve been the owner and operator of Sandpiper for 33 years,” says ice cream parlor owner Paris Alatsis. “You’ll find me or my wife making our homemade ice cream every day of the week.”

Like Claudio’s, Sandpiper Ice Cream attracts visitors with its long family history. The old-fashioned popcorn machine and rotating pretzel stand pay a nostalgic ode to the old days of ice cream parlors, and everybody likes seeing a private owner work his business day in and day out. But, as Mr. Alatsis notes, “Things got harder when Ralph’s came.”

Ralph’s Italian Ices has enjoyed three summers of booming business in Greenport. The new kid on the block sings a familiar tune, as most of Greenport’s tourists have undoubtedly had dessert at a Ralph’s elsewhere in the tri-state area which the budding franchise spans.

“I’ve been getting dessert from Sandpiper since I was in high school. Back then it was the only parlor in town. We still go, but now my kids beg for Ralph’s every time we pass,” explains Julia Robbins, a local realtor.

Gone are the days of the highway diner, replaced by the golden arches of McDonald’s, familiar in both product and price. Like the rest of the world, Greenport is no stranger to franchise businesses outgunning family-owned operations.

But doesn’t that defy the enjoyment of a vacation? To escape from the familiar and experience the unknown?

“It’s tough, when the big companies move in, but people can tell if you love what you do,” explains Aldo Maorana while crafting several espressos behind the counter of his café on Front Street. “It’s all in the service. I’ve been making coffee for thirty years, but I don’t work the shop to sell people coffee. I live my life to share experiences with people, on a human level. “

Aldo’s Café was faced with a threatening intrusion when Starbucks, the unholy symbol of gentrification, moved right across the street. Perhaps it was Aldo’s philosophy on life and business that helped preserve his shop, as an uplifting victory for the home team saw Starbucks pack up and ship out after two seasons, when corporate headquarters saw that the business wasn’t meeting its quota.

“Greenport should be an experience, not just a business. I hope people can understand that,” Aldo explains.

The shop-lined streets of Greenport village have seen coffee competition come and go. New dessert eateries won’t even brew coffee out of respect for the hometown hero who beat out Starbucks. But corporate sharks feed wherever they can find food, and right now—with tourism increasing thanks to direct transport to the town from the Hamptons, Manhattan and even Connecticut—the money situation in Greenport is looking mighty delicious.

The next push is coming from Subway, the world’s largest franchise. Despite a good fight from Greenport Township, including the Building and Zoning Departments who seek to preserve Greenport’s pristine public image, the franchise famous for its $5 footlong subs looks like it will be taking a big bite out of every sandwich business in town very soon.

“There’s always this looming threat that things are going to change,” says Mark LaMain, owner of Butterito’s, formerly Butta’Cakes. LaMain took Superstorm Sandy as a sign to change his shop. He decided to expand from just cupcakes and pastries and include soups and fresh baked sandwiches to the menu. LaMain is proud to serve locally sourced foods.

“The hurricane was one thing, now Subway is moving in. I’m totally revamping the menu—again—to include burritos. And if Chipotle comes next year, then I’ll just take it as a sign to leave the town,” LaMain jokes. “It all comes down to the customer though. Where are they going to eat? Do they want something fresh or do they want something familiar?”

The historic family business of Claudio’s brings in big business. The mom and pop shops that precede it all attribute to the small town charm that attracts tourists and keeps them coming back. But Mark LaMain begs the perfect question. In a summer resort town hours away from the traffic of city living, do visitors want more of the same or something new?