236 Lafayette St. New York, NY, is home to a restaurant that by the looks of its exterior is not too welcoming. “Don’t judge a book by its cover” is the most appropriate phrase that can be said about one of Soho’s hidden treasures, “La Nueva Conquista”. Located in a neighborhood that was once known for its manufacturing firms, the Dominican eatery has not strayed away from serving their main customers, the common worker.
Positioned under a shabby apartment building, the restaurant with its meager decor does not try to be pretentious. With a space equivalent to a Manhattan apartment, there is barely any room to eat in. To dine in is more like eating at a bar; stools are used instead of chairs. Dull yellow walls seem to evoke some type of cultural symbolism.
As customers enter the joint, they’re greeted by the cashier girl who is stationed no more than four feet from the door. “Customers become like family here” said Joanna Tavarez, 35, the cashier and daughter of the owner. As the employees maintain an air of optimism in these harsh economic times, it is important to note that small businesses like “La Nueva Conquista” who have been around for over 40 years, are not safe from the grips of this recession.
1970’s Soho was a period of change in the area. For the latter part of the 19th century Soho was considered one of the best areas for manufacturing. According to Charles Simpson SOHO: The artist in the city, “After the turn of the century, new developments in the transportation of goods and the labor force worked against the district.” As the decades progressed, during the 1970’s, more factories started to move out and artists moved in. As factory workers were the main source of income for “La Nueva Conquista”, their moving out seemed like it would hurt the business. Despite the change in customers, the Dominican eatery remained.
Having been in Soho for so many years, “La Nueva Conquista” prides itself on being the only restaurant of its kind in the neighborhood. “We have the #1 best seasoning in food” said Joanna. Confidence is an element that is evident in the shop, believing in their uniqueness in a neighborhood such as Soho makes the small eatery stand out more. “There’s no where else to buy Spanish food in Soho” said Joanna. Serving such foods as pork chops, roasted chicken, rice mixed with black beans, and fried sweet plantains, La Nueva Conquista brings a spoon full of Dominican culture to Soho.
Even with its simple exterior, this restaurant of Dominican cuisine has become a favorite amongst Soho commuters and residents. Taking the long walk from the tribeca area Felix Vargas, 21, does not mind the distance in order to get good food after work. “I don’t mind walking all the way here, the food is almost as good as my mothers” said Vargas, who is of Dominican background. Apart form boasting an array of food, another great asset is their inexpensive prices, of course compared to the pricey menus in surrounding eateries. A hefty meal averages about $8-9. At such convenient prices and for so much food, it seems remarkable that the restaurant is still standing. According to Joanna who has lived above the restaurant her entire life, the restaurant is almost always busy. However, “we sell, but not like before” said Joanna, implying that the economy is not only affecting large corporations, but also small businesses. With a smile on her face she goes on to serve another customer.
As Joanna has grown up in the Soho neighborhood, she has noticed slight changes in the stores that are still open. In the area, around Lafayette and Spring, she has not noticed too many stores closing. However, on Broadway, a short walk to the west, she says “There are a lot of clothing stores closing.” With business seemingly slowing down at “La Nueva Conquista” could the neighborhood favorite be leaving soon. Joanna doubts it, “there’s no other place down here like us” she said.
Bes dominican food I tasted outside DR. Honestly, thank god there are still places like this around. It’s good to know some of us can still afford to eat out, enjoy it and not have a hole in our pockets after it.
Best*