Reading Information
Bernard S. Cohn, “Chapter Five: Cloth, Clothes, and Colonialism,” Colonialism and Its Forms of Knowledge
Overview
Chapter 5 talks about the importance of clothes and clothing of the people in India and its relations to colonialism. The wearing of the turban in India was a highly disputed topic among the British and the Indians. The turban led to a lot of economic, political, and cultural issues between both sides. This dispute led to constant rebellions by the Indians against the British. The Indian see the wearing of the turban as a form of self identity. There were 2 types of turbans: one was for plain clothes and the other was for rulership which had ajigha and sairpatch on it. The British realized that an effective way of ruling the Indians was to control their clothing rules and what they were allowed to wear. The British took the privilege of self identity away from the Indians and imposed their own clothing rules on the nation. The Indians were limited to wearing certain amount of clothing. The Sikhs that served in the army had the right to wear a turban which was seen as an important item of their army uniform. This was known as the military-style turban and it was seen by the Sikhs as an attempt to maintain their whole unique identity. Clothes are not seen only as a body covering but they also signify power and authority. The turban also had several different uses. Placing a turban at the feet of a conqueror signified surrender, or asking someone for a favor, or the willingness to become their slave. Cloths and clothes were also received as presents.
Keywords
- sikhism- a monotheistic religion founded in Punjab in the 15th century by Guru Nanak.
- turban-a man’s headdress, consisting of a long length of cotton or silk wound around a cap or the head, worn especially by Muslims and Sikhs
- guru- a spiritual teacher(usually with Hinduism and Buddhism) , especially one who imparts initiation
Argument
Cohn argues that, “Clothes are not just body coverings and matters of adornment, nor can they be understood only as metaphors of power and authority, nor as symbols; in many contexts, clothes literally are authority” (Cohn 114)
Evidence
Cohn uses the accounts of Englishmen as evidence to support his claims and argument. Authority could seen as something that could be transferred through acts of incorporation. F.W Buckner agrees that robes worn by kings could transmit their authority. Buckner see robes as a symbol of success and its ability of continuation. The usage of clothes can distinguish the power and status of a person.
Historiographical Debate
Cohn does not explicitly situate himself in a wider scholarly debate in Chapter 5.
Contribution to Our Understanding of Colonial Rule
Chapter 5 helped me understood more about the importance and value of clothes in the Indian society. It made me realize how important the turban was seen as and how restricted the Indians were due to the limitations set by the British. I learned that controlling the clothing of the Indian society would be one key way that the British had to control and take over a nation. The British knew that the turban was seen as a form of self identity so they wanted to strip them off their identity. The dispute over the wearing of a turban lead to a lot of ongoing issues between the Indians and the British. Clothing wasn’t only seen as a form of covering but also as a form of authority. Reading this chapter helped me understand the changing and limitation of clothes would be another strategy for the British to take over and rule effectively of a nation.