Feature Writing

OP ED: The power of context: Culture appropriation in the fashion industry

What is context? It is the framework, background, and circumstances that form the setting for an event, statement, or idea, and in terms of which it can be fully understood.

Without context we cannot communicate truthfully and effectively. Lack of context leads to miscommunication.

North America and much of Western Europe are low context cultures. These cultures are logical, linear, individualistic, and action-oriented.  People from low-context cultures value logic, facts, and directness. Communicators are expected to be straightforward, concise, and efficient in telling what action is expected. This low context culture of the West can in part explain why major parts of other cultures used as inspiration are cut up and misrepresented in the fashion industry.

–> Might not use this info:(This differs from high context cultures in the Middle East, Asia, Africa, and South America. These cultures are relational, collectivist, intuitive, and contemplative. This means that people in these cultures emphasize interpersonal relationships.)

Sometimes in our need to execute quickly and efficiently the context of a concept gets left behind.

Over the last 15 years culture appropriation has become one the biggest issues in the fashion industry.

  • Japanese designer Junya Watanabe
    • All-white cast of models, decorated with the traditional scarring of the Karamojong people of Uganda.
    • Watanabe’s Rachel Dolezal collection
  • Valentino’s spring/summer 2016
    • Cornrowed hair and masai beading
    • Described in Vogue by its designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli as a message in “tolerance and the beauty that comes out of cross-cultural expression” —only eight of the 90 looks showcased were on women of color
  • DSquared2
    • fall collection
    • Entitled “DSquaw” — a derogatory term for a North American Indian woman or wife — the clothing incorporated indigenous shapes and materials in a superficial, stereotypical way
    • The brand described the collection as “an ode to America’s native tribes meets the noble spirit of Old Europe,” but no Native Canadian or American artists were consulted

http://lifestyle.one/grazia/fashion/news/leomie-anderson-kim-kardashian-cultural-appropriation/

  • In reference to the dichotomy between designers’ desire to take aspects of black culture to use in their work, and their apparent unwillingness to cast black models in their shows, Leomie adds ‘They take a lot of inspiration from black culture – African art, for example – and then when it doesn’t translate onto the runway, of course it does make people upset – why are we not included?’
  • Veteran model Naomi Campbell recently backed up Leomie’s comments in an interview with Teen Vogue, explaining ‘When I was younger, I encountered this same issue. I would be backstage at shows and there would be stylists who didn’t have any experience working with black models […] I’d always just bring my own products – my own make-up colours, hair products, everything – just to be sure that I had everything I needed to achieve a certain look. It’s disappointing to hear that models of colour are still encountering these same issues all these years later.’
  • Interview:
    • quotes from Dwarmis Concepcion
      • Fashion designer from Dominican Republic

Call to action:

  • During a fashion show that is using African culture
    • Choose each model based on what culture the outfit that they are wearing was inspired by
    • Include real video/photos/music of the culture they are borrowing from throughout the show
    • Hand out compassion sponsorship cards to everyone in the audience and speak about it at the end of the show

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