Reading Information
Bernard S. Cohn, “Chapter Five: Cloth, Clothes, and Colonialism in the Nineteenth Century,” Colonialism and Its Forms of Knowledge
Overview
In this chapter, Cohen moves the reader away from legal development towards fashion, culture, and its implications. He illustrates the importance of clothing for both the colonizers and the Indian groups. As readers, we begin to understand the association of clothing to status and authority. He provides several examples of clothing and their effect on India and England’s relationship. For example, he spends a portion of the chapter addressing the relationship between Sikhs and the turban, and its significance. The British used clothing as not only a tool of control but also a means of practical ruler-ship. Cohen’s focus widely ranges on the various regions and articles of clothing. He makes a point to discuss women’s clothing as well as traditional clothes, turbans, and shoes. He mentions that European women were advised to pack and bring special clothing that would help deal with the environment while maintaining “western poise.” This separated the local women from the outsiders as ” Indian women have shown little inclination to adopt items of Western women’s attire” (138).
His objective in this chapter is to point out how prevalent the differences in clothes affected one’s status and separated the British from the locals. For example, the British made an effort to distinguish their local Indian recruit uniforms from their own. When Cohen mentioned the difference in uniforms, he makes a point to address how the British thought of India as a dangerous climate. Soldiers were given special uniforms such as cholera belts to survive. Even so, these practical steps taken still included designs to portray a distinctly British look. We can easily see the chauvinistic nature of the empire, where even clothing made a serious statement over the powers of control.
Keywords
- Khilat (114)- It is a special procedure involving a king, where he would take off a portion of his garment and give it to a subordinate. This procedure was a special occasion and honor. This helps bring insight into why Roe had to avoid giving or receiving clothing as gifts.
- Sijda (115)- A method of complete prostration. When the British encountered the Mughals, they had to be aware of the local customs that could indicate complete servitude.
- Khalsa code of discipline (109)- The Sikhs followed this “warrior code.” Part of it included wearing a turban. The British understood the importance of the turban and allowed the Sikhs to retain it in their uniform.
- Edward Balfour (136)- Author of the Cyclopedia of India. His work helped nurture the concept of “Orientalism.”
Argument
Cohen argues that clothing played an essential role in British control of India. Clothing acted as both indicators of power, as well as dividers, separating the locals from their British rulers (107).
Evidence
The author uses primary sources through quoting British officers and their impressions when discussing the turban. For example, he relied on CPT R. W. Falcon’s handbook in illustrating British views on their Sikh counterparts (109). Besides using firsthand accounts and reports, he also provides letters and official documents which help show the reader the British perspective. These primary sources support his position in the power of clothing. For example, Cohen provides the text from the official “Letter Patent and Constitution,” which helped establish an institution of knighthood in India (119).
Cohen’s evidence is reliable in that they are vetting government letters or from notable ranking members. I am not suggesting that there wasn’t bias, but there was credibility in the source in itself. Cohen’s evidence supports his position and helps further his argument.
Historiographical Debate
While Cohen doesn’t place himself in the line of fire, he does mention some interesting historical controversies. For example, Cohen discussed the “breast cloth controversy” (142). In that section, Cohen summarizes R.N. Yesudas’ and T.K. Ravindran’s positions on the pertinence of this dispute. It seems that Cohen positions himself as a storyteller and a referee in this case.
Contribution to Our Understanding of Colonial Rule
In this chapter, Cohen ties in clothing and its impact in colonial India. Here, he provides multiple examples and cases where seemingly innocent articles of clothing, have profound meaning and impact. One section discussed the British military, Sikhs, and the importance of the turban. The reader is given a brief history behind some of the Sikh traditions and is then shown the traditional importance of the turban. The British respected the Sikhs as good soldiers and would use them to make up a significant portion of their colonial forces. I felt that the silver lining in this situation was that the British didn’t take a hard approach, and instead allowed the Sikhs to retain their turban as part of the uniform. I couldn’t help but wonder whether other conquering empires would have allowed such an exception. Regardless, one could argue that this flexibility proved to be a small victory for the Sikhs and their identity.
British flexibility proved itself to be an important trait for its survival and steady control. Cohen spends a section of the chapter noting that the British military adapted their uniforms to India’s terrain. Officers presented their concerns over cholera, and other diseases, citing American adventures in the Philippines as a case study in what to avoid. As such, the British Empire allocated resources to provide practical uniforms rather than “Western fashion.” The age of Napoleonic fashion and adventurism was over.