Reading Information
Bernard S. Cohn, “Chapter Five: Cloth, Clothes and Colonialism in the Nineteenth Century,” Colonialism and Its Forms of Knowledge
Overview
In this chapter, Cohn examines the role clothing and cloth played in colonial India. One example was the Sikh turban. The Sikhs were located in the Punjab, which was “across the traditional invasion route of India” and they were also growing more militant (Cohn p. 107). These factors meant that they faced persecution by the Mughals in the 16th and 17th centuries. Some key elements that distinguished the Sikhs from Hindus and Muslims were that men would not cut their hair, wear a comb in their hair, they would wear knee-length breeches, they would wear a steel bracelet on their right wrist, and carry a sword. There was no mention of the turban, and scholars are not certain when the turban became a key feature of Sikhism. However, the British used the distinct Sikh turban to easily identify them. They favored the Sikhs even though they conquered the Punjab in 1849. They saw them as “manly and brave” and wanted to recruit “Sikhs who looked like Sikhs – wearing those badges of wilderness, the beard and unshorn hair” into the East India Company’s army (Cohn p.109).
Although the turban was not an original staple of Sikhism, the British used it as the main identifier when distinguished Sikhs from other groups. This association may have led to the turban becoming a crucial part of the religion for Sikhs themselves. This is one example in this chapter on how the British were able to influence and inform what became important Indian traditions.
Keywords
1.the Punjab – an area in India in which Sikhism originated. A Sikh empire emerged here, but was conquered by the East India Company in 1849.
2. Sikhism – a religious movement that emerged in the 15th century. Many Sikhs were persecuted in the 16th and 17th centuries by the Mughals. The Sikhs went on to create an empire in the Punjab.
3. pagris – the term for turban
Argument
Although turbans and Indian clothing had already existed in Indian society, it was the British who deemed some of these articles to be “traditional” and the Indians had to adapt to their own changing customs (Cohn p. 62).
Evidence
Cohn uses many news articles, letters, and personal accounts to illustrate how the English reacted to Indian clothing. When the Prince of Wales traveled to India in 1876, English newspapers such as The Graphic and the Illustrated London Weekly recorded the scenes for their audiences in Great Britain. These illustrations showed the “exotic” nature of the Indians with their dances and dress. It is clear that certain features of Indian clothing were highlighted, such as the use of vibrant colors and turbans because it was very different than custom English dress.
Historiographical Debate
Cohn uses the work of other historian such as N.C. Chaudhuri (p.131). This work is used to inform how Hindus who worked in higher positions would wear Muslim garb for public appearances, but never at home or in religious context. I am not sure how Cohn is situating himself in a wider scholarly debate because he seems to be supporting the text he uses from them.
Contribution to Our Understanding of Colonial Rule
This chapter delves into the importance of clothing in colonial India. There were some “traditions” that were largely defined by the British such as the importance of the turbans or Indians taking their shoes off when entering homes. Although they existed before English control, they came to signify more under it. This could be attributed to the fact that the English wanted to shape Indian society entirely; they wanted to dictate what was to be important for the Indians. This also meant that the new English understanding of Indian customs included strict guidelines for rebellion. I think this chapter helped inform me on everyday things that colonialism affects. I would not have previously thought clothes would be so important to the agenda of a colonial power. However, it becomes crucial when the person dictating what clothing is important to you or to your religion, is the person who is in charge – not yourself.