Reading Information
Cohn, Colonialism and Its Forms of Knowledge. Chapter Five: “Cloth, Clothes, and Colonialism in the Nineteenth Century”.
Overview
In the fifth chapter of his book Cohn talks about cloth and clothing as a huge and vital part in the process of colonizing India in the nineteenth century. Cohn finds cloth and clothing very important and relevant for understanding British efforts to constitute colonial authority in India, because clothing was a sign of authority and gave the British the sense of power and control over their colony; according to Cohn clothing was not just something to cover bodies for Indians, it was a big part of their culture, customs and deeply routed traditions: “…the clothes worn –and particularly the use of clothes as prestations in the Mughal’s court – had meaning far beyond any “practical use ”(Cohn,113).
In this chapter we read that Indian headdress, shoes, jewelry – all head meanings to it and were a part of Indian traditions. Cohn also talks about the amount of clothing, or more correctly I should say, the amount of fabrics the Indians wore; their “nakedness”, as Cohn writes, was unusual and striking for the British. The author also quotes James Johnson, a surgeon who travelled to India about that: “…waterman who rows or drags our budjrow (barge) up the Ganges, consists in a small narrow piece of cloth (doty), passed between the thighs, and fastened before and behind to a piece of stout packthread” (Cohn, 130).
Further, the chapter touches the topic of uniform for the people working in National Congress, turbans and shoes in India, how the British misunderstood the meaning of it and tried to change it. Also, Cohn points out that besides authority, power and status, the British were concerned how their clothing could protect them from heat and disease.
Keywords
Turban – a man’s headdress, consisting of a long length of cotton or silk wound around a cap or the head, worn especially by Muslims and Sikhs.
Sikhism – a monotheistic religion founded in Punjab in the 15th century by Guru Nanak.
Authority – the power or right to give orders, make decisions, and enforce obedience.
Mughal – a member of the Muslim dynasty of Mongol origin founded by the successors of Tamerlane, which ruled much of India from the 16th to the 19th century.
Argument
“Clothes are not just coverings and matters of adornment, not can they be understood as only as metaphors of power and authority, nor as symbols; in many contexts, clothes literally are Authority” (Cohn, 114).
Evidence
To support his argument Cohn was referring to many examples, where clothing would be seen as authority. He draws upon the customs and traditions in India: “In the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, an Indian would place his Turban at the feet of his conqueror as a sign of complete surrender. This was also used in a metaphoric sense to ask a great favor of someone, indicating a willingness to become his slave” (Cohn, 116).
Another evidence is also reliable and effectively supports the author argument, since it’s an event from the past. Cohen wrote about Sir Thomas Roe, who was the English ambassador, and Jahangir, the Indian Emperor. Due to prior knowledge gained by learning Indian traditions, Roe understood that it would be unwise to accept clothing from the Jahangir and believed it “…would in the eyes of Indians make Roe into a subordinate or companion of the Mughals.” (Cohen,113)
Historiographical Debate
Cohn explicitly mentions the sacred writings about Gurus of a translator and a commentator M.A. Macauliffe and notes by W. H. MacLeod, who talks about turbans and that their appearance was not always a part of the canon of the community.
Contribution to Our Understanding of Colonial Rule
It was an unexpected chapter for me, because I would never assume that just clothing could play such a big role in a colonizing process. Even though the British learned the history and language of India, they still considered themselves separate from Indians: “in their dress and demeanor constantly symbolized their separateness from their Indian superiors, equals, and inferiors” (Cohn, 111). Reading this chapter, it became clear that the British knew, it would be in the best interests of the British to learn the significance of clothing in order to keep their status as colonial ruler and not be undermined by the Indians. It was also interesting to understand whether the Indians were submissive or not in this process. As Cohn writes about Indians: “outwardly they might confirm to the sahib’s expectation, but they could never be trusted. At any time their deep-seated, irrational superstitions could break forth in violence and overturn all the painful efforts of the conquerors to lead them in proper directions” (Cohen, 124). As we keep reading, we see that even with resistance, Indians step by step had to admit the changes in their clothing made by British.