Reading Information
Bernard Cohn, “Chapter 5: Cloth, Clothes, and Colonialism in the Nineteenth Century,” Colonialism and Its Forms of Knowledge”
Overview
The fifth chapter starts a discussion on another integral of any culture, clothing and traditions. Throughout this chapter Cohn describes the different groups within India and how clothing was one of the major ways in identifying each group. Clothing was a sign of social status, caste, and beliefs. A majority of the chapter is used to the discuss the importance of the turbans to the Sikhs. Turbans were part of the Sikh cultured that the British colonists decided to use in order to try identify all Indian people. The British were also very serious about fashion and clothing, as they too saw it as a way for them to express the view of their culture. They saw their clothing as way to express power and authority within India and to help differentiate themselves with the locals. Differences in ideologies about clothing often led to some tensions between the Indians and the British. One particular aspect of the British attempt to assimilate the Indians into British clothing was trying to convince the Indian women to dress like British women. The British believed the Indian women were not dressed modestly enough. The British also implemented a uniform system for Indians.
Keywords
turban- sacred wrap around the head worn by Sikhs.
topi- headwear used by the British in order to help them identify themselves around India.
Khilat- special robe worn by a ruler that is meant to be passed on
Argument
The British tried to make their stamp on India through clothing. They tried to completely change the way the Indian women dressed. “British women newly arrived in India recorded their shock not only at the seminakedness of lower-status Indian household servants, who seemed constantly underfoot, dusting, sweeping, lounging about, or playing with the babalog (white children), but also at their free access to the bedrooms of the memsahibs as if they were non-males”(Cohn 130). They were in complete awe about how the women dressed and act and they wanted to change it immediately.
Evidence
The evidence Cohn used help explain the fact that people of India were not very found of what British were trying to do them with regards to clothing. “N.C. Chaudhuri has described how males who worked in Muhal courts on in British offices would wear Muslim dress, but followed the rule that such garments were “worn for work only, and never in personal life… Hindus put on Muslim costume for public appearance scrupulously put them off when going into the inner house, and for religious observances, and they would never dream of wearing anything but orthodox Hindu clothes.” (Cohn 130) This evidence shows that they were being a little spiteful and does effective support his argument.
Historiographical Debate
Cohn does explicitly state the work of other scholars. However as in previous chapters, he doesn’t seem to take a side.
Contribution to Our Understanding of a Colonial Rule.
This chapter proved to be another important step for me to better understand colonial rule. Never before have I studied a culture in which clothing is such a crucial part. It was extremely interesting to see the interactions of the British and the Indians because of clothing. To see the British try to almost completely change the way Indians dress, when a huge reason for their dress was because of the climate and their religion. I thought it was rather inhuman of them to try to strip them of their liberty of dress and force them to wear certain articles of clothing as a form of identification. The portion of the chapter that explained how Hindus would wear Muslim clothing but would feel extremely out of place and disgraced because it wasn’t their religious clothes.