Reading Information
Bernard Cohn, “Chapter 5: Cloth, Clothes and Colonialism in the Nineteenth Century,” Colonialism and Its Forms of Knowledge
Overview
In this chapter Cohn shows how cloth and clothing would allow the British to create a system to dominate over the indigenous people of India. In the 19th century, clothes established “categorical separation between dark subjects and fair-skinned rulers; the search for representations of the inherent and necessary differences between rulers and ruled and as constructed by the British; and the creation of a uniform of rebellion by the Indians in the twentieth century.” (Cohn, 107) For instance, The Sikh who applied for the bus driver position could not understand why he was denied because of his unwillingness to remove his turban when thousands of Sikhs who fought and died for the British in World War II could wear theirs. The Mr. Sagar’s feeling of confusion, the employer’s “quest for power to impose rules” and “the working-class whites’ resentment of the dark-skinned, exotically dressed strangers” (106) are all rooted in the analysis of the history of the turban and its identity. The British would make Indians wear certain clothes as representations of how they would see them in society. In the military, Shikh’s wildness would be controlled by their turbans and “appear as the British idea of what Mughal troopers looked like…”(Cohn,125).
Keywords
- Sikhism: a religious movement that grew out of syncretic tendencies in theology and worship among Hindus and Muslims in north India in the 15th century
- Turban: a head wrap worn by Sikhs
- Mughals: Turkic-speaking people from Central Asia who traced their descent to Ghengiz Khan and Tammerlane, based their authority on a divine relationship with God
Argument
In this chapter Cohn argues that the British constructed significance in cloth and clothing that allowed them to establish their own colonial authority in India. Cloth and clothing allowed the British to separate themselves from the colonized Indians, giving themselves a superior position in British India.
Evidence
“The dispute over Sikh’s turban can be seen as a symbolic displacement of economic, political, and cultural issues, rooted in two hundred years of tangles relationships.” (Cohn, 106)
“The current significance of the distinctive turban of the Sikhs was constructed out of the colonial context, in which British rulers sought to objectify qualities they thought appropriate to roles that various groups in India were to play.” (Cohn,110)
“The constitution of authoritative relationships, of rulership, of hierarchy in India cannot be reduced to the sociological construction of leaders and followers, patrons and clients, subordination and superordination alone. Authority is literally part of the body of those who possess it.” (Cohn, 114)
Historiographical Debate
As Professor Heath mentioned in the reflection on the Week 4 discussion, Cohn draws upon Eric Hobsbawm and Terrence Ranger’s piece called “invention of tradition.” Ranger and Hobsbawn discuss how certain groups or individuals codify practices or items that actually exist in populations. In the reflection, Professor Heath writes, “We should wonder what kind of “tradition” this really is, how long it has existed, and how the claims about “tradition” are helping to justify and advance the power of certain groups.” This is particularly the type of rational Cohn is using in his arguments of the British imposing their own meaning and value on the Shikh turban.
Contribution to Our Understanding of Colonial Rule
This chapter was particularly eye opening for me. I could never have imagined the significance that clothing could have in colonial rule. The British would use clothing to control the Indian population, allowing themselves to have the “upper hand.” In respect to the Sikh turban, the British were able to constrict significances and associations while constructing it as an essential and “traditional” symbol of Sikhness. This was particularly true of the Sikhs recruited in the army, in which such meanings and customs were used to validate the British use of Sikh armies. The British solidified the turban as the image of Sikh tradition and helped to uphold it. During this process, the British declared themselves as the authoritative figure of defining customs and traditions, imposing their own value, connotation, and understanding on an item within Indian culture. This idea of the British as arbitrators of Indian customs and culture is not novel. They had acted in a similar fashion when translating Indian laws into English, constructing a system of government that would appeal to Indian traditions while still adhering to British ideology.