Walking up the hilly streets of Washington Heights, Dr. Johanna Fernandez, a professor of history at Baruch College and a radical activist, praised the “neighborhoody feeling” of the area.
Fernandez was born and raised in the Bronx in a Dominican family. Prior to residing in Washington Heights, Fernandez went to school and taught mainly in white, upper class neighborhoods. However, after being in those settings for quite some time, she longed for “a refreshing change by being among people of color.” She needed, “to live in a neighborhood that’s black, African American, or Dominican.That’s what makes me feel at home,” she said.
Dressed in a full suit of workout attire, Fernandez gives warm hello’s and bright smiles to almost every fruit and vegetable vendor she passes by on Broadway. These kinds of vendors are an important aspect of the neighborhood’s Latin influence and culture. The fruit stands are lined with fresh and beautiful items from the “old-country” (Dominican Republic) such as plantains, a staple food product , yuca, and yautia.
Over a rich, homemade, Bustelo coffee, Fernandez begins to explain the history of Dominicans migrating to the area. Many Dominicans began to migrate in large numbers to the U.S. after the 1960’s and early 1970’s, due to political instability and repression under the dictatorship of Rafael Leonidas Trujillo Molina. This, Fernandez said, “is important because the U.S.intervened in the D.R.in 1965, on the side of the forces of Trujillo. The purpose of their intervention was to quell a revolution and independence from foreign rule and democracy and to not have the D.R. become another Cuba.” As a direct result, Washington Heights was transformed into one of the most political neighborhoods of NYC at the time. Fernandez continued to emphasize this political history and organizing by talking about the Washington Heights riots of 1992. These riots stemmed from a Dominican man who was shot by a police officer. Dominicans rebelling, she said, is very significant as immigrants on a whole are not necessarily known for rebelling or getting involved in political activities.
Beyond its politics, Washington Heights is a vibrant historic and culturally rich neighborhood. An area predominantly populated by Dominicans, it features significant and fascinating historical sites, restaurants, parks, and museums that attracts diverse demographic groups. Historic houses include The Morris-Jumel Mansion, which was George Washington’s headquarters during the Revolutionary War. Notable destinations such as The Audubon Ballroom, was the site where freedom fighter, Malcolm X was assassinated in Feb. 1965. Presently, that building now houses the memorial center called the Malcolm X and Betty Shabazz Education and Research Center. Fort Tryon Park, one of the sites of the Battle of Fort Washington, with astonishing views of the Hudson River, is home to actress Bette Midler’s New Leaf Restaurant and Bar. The Cloisters , a part of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, is also situated within Fort Tryon Park. Washington Heights continues to attract visitors to other famous locations such as The New York Presbyterian Hospital and The George Washington Bridge.
Today, the gentrification of Washington Heights and rising rents are well underway, steadily following the trajectory of adjacent Harlem. Indeed, many of the commercial rents in Northern Manhattan are becoming much higher than those of midtown Manhattan. “When I first started living here some time ago,” Fernandez said, “there were no coffee shops, but now we have two expensive coffee shops, along with $4 pastries.”
A major neighborhood conflict that is a hot button issue currently is the overwhelming police presence. On Fernandez’s Riverside Drive strip, one will find many undercover police officers. Some residents accuse the police of harassing and racially profiling minorities. A recent incident that Fernandez witnessed, around the time of Ferguson, was a man being stopped by police on Riverside Drive. After the man began to ask questions, a conflict ensued in which the people of the community came out to observe what was taking place by policing the police.
In the middle of writing a book and being a full-time professor and a dedicated social justice activist, Fernandez carves out some small, but very important entertainment and relaxing moments, with visits to some of her favorite spots in the neighborhood. One of those is Margot Restaurant on Broadway where her favorite dish is the ribs. Another spot is a hot yoga studio where the temperature is literally hot. Fort Tryon park with its breathtaking overlook is another one of her favorites. Fernandez calls that park “a gem.” She loves the nearby shopping areas. Fernandez reminisces on her recent summer visit to the beautiful row of restaurants by the famous and affluent La Marina Restaurant, located alongside the Hudson River. These restaurants, Fernandez said, “are a huge pick up spot.”
Before the evening ended, Fernandez underscored the vibrancy of Washington Heights. The music blaring loudly on streets, the delicious smell of food, the yearly Dominican Day Parade, are among the many vivid elements that keep the neighborhood alive and growing. In the next five to ten years, Fernandez sees her neighborhood going in the upscale direction of Harlem. Still, living in Washington Heights, Fernandez said, allows her to feel at home amongst her own people.”That’s my story,” she said.
