The famous ice shop in Corona, Lemon Ice King, has been around since 1964, a time when the area was pre-dominantly Italian. Pete Benfaremo and his father Nicola were its original owners and Vincent Barbaccia, a teenager, was employed behind the counter, serving customers in a traditional uniform: white tee-shirt draped over white pants and a white apron branded by the ice shop’s logo. Barbaccia assisted Benfaremo for some time before beginning to help manage the business and develop other assistants, most notably Michael Zampino.
“We were selling lemon, pistachio and orange. More typical in an Italian taste” said Barbaccia, co-owner of the shop since buying the business from the Benfaremo family in 1993 with Zampino.
Today in Corona, the population has nearly doubled since the 1960’s and race in the community has changed significantly. The area is recognized for being pre-dominantly Hispanic. Statistics from the 2010 census reveal that approximately 74 percent of the community identified themselves as Hispanic or Latino.
Local residents are no longer playing bocce at William F. Moore park on 108tth Street, across from the ice shop. Summers still host older residents on special occasions, gathering together the older Italian community with games of bocce and heated conversations about the Mets. These nights at park, nicknamed “Spaghetti”, bring peak business production for Lemon Ice King, but around the community, one will find more Colombian bakeries and Dominican diners than they will Italian cuisines.

In the business for over 30 years, Vincent Barbaccia wants to keep the shop authentic to it’s “King” Pete Benfaremo. The gold plate is an original installation, lighting up Corona till 11pm.
The influx of immigrants has translated into a bevy of small businesses in Corona, Queens. Nail salons, wax and thread spas, pizzerias, and barbershops repeated for blocks by different owners yet no business is as specific to a season like that of Mr. Zampino and Mr. Barbaccia. Nonetheless, they offer their authentic Italian desert all year.
For $1.50, customers are granted a scoop of ice, blended with a choice of over 50 flavors, all blended with natural products. Numerous Corona natives admitted to having it as routine as their coffee in the morning.
It has become a landmark in Corona, whether customers are cluttered together after a Mets game on a Sunday evening or parked during the winter months when Barbaccia, Zampino and their team of teenagers dig a trail through the snow for customers to go and make orders at the stand.
Behind the counter, a crop of teenagers no longer dress in traditional apparel, wearing washed-out slim fitting jeans and a t-shirt with the Benfaremo logo, finished off with a baseball cap, sometimes flipped backwards. They still offer service with the same gratitude and are forbidden by the soul of Pete to mix any ice flavors. Nonetheless, customers around the neighborhood love their ices. Adriano Santos, a resident around the neighborhood and a regular at the shop admits that the people working anticipate he is going to order a small lime ice upon arrival. Swearing to Lemon Ice King’s consistent measures to know their clients, Santos said “There is no other place with gourmet ices like this. My grandmother’s flan is the only thing I know that is as good.”
Lemon Ice King is all about maintaining a classic tradition of preparation, routine and delivery; however, they are attuned to the community changes and continue to make different flavors to accommodate them.
Barbaccia and Zampino continue the tradition to hire teens within the community. While there are now a culmination of ethnicities living in the area, these business owners look for respect and good attitude from the teenagers they hire.
Understanding that not all households have parents supportive of the children living in them, Barabaccia likes parents who are actively involved in their child’s work schedule. “You can tell by the respect that these kids have and how they act, the kind of home they are coming from” said Barbaccia. It is a bias he carries from his own experience of being hired at the Lemon Ice King.
Barbaccia admits that the changing community affected his business for a small period of time. According to the city-data statistics, the median household income in Corona is $46,493, putting them below the average household income of New York city. Moreover, these statistics do not take into account the illegal immigrants living in these households. Many residents of the Sherwood apartment complexes know this situation too well. One resident, who wished to remain anonymous, admitted that she has three undocumented people living under her apartment. During bi-annual checkups, she has them stay elsewhere for a week to avoid suspicious activity and keep her rent under control.
Ice carts, often run by Hispanic immigrants who fill the streets of Corona, offer a similar product to Lemon Ice King for a cheaper price. They are famous for carving out ice from their cart and saturating it with concentrated flavors for a lesser price. Many local residents were intrigued by the price for a while.
“We see the change in the past years where they would patronize those carts because they were cheaper but now they realize the quality of our product. For that extra 50 cents or a quarter, they’re getting a choice of 50 flavors. For under 10 dollars you get something for you and the kids,” said Barbaccia.

During the Holiday season, Lemon Ice King stays open, offering their delights and getting into the spirit.
The product is unmatched indeed. All the ices are water-based and made with real fruit. In addition, the business always packs a surplus of ingredients they provide everything on their menu at all times. “We run out of nothing.” says Barbaccia.
In addition, the business continues to increase their menu to accommodate the taste of the community.
“The way the flavor of the neighborhood has changed reflects in the ices that we sell now. We’re selling more tropical flavors. More mango, coconut and piña colada” said Mr. Barbaccia.
Last year, the business introduced an Oreo-cookie and a root beer flavor. Mr. Barbaccia hints that a tropical delight and a tamarind flavored ice are in the works at the request of his customers.
The business has not experienced a drastic change in sales. The bigger challenge the business faces is maintaining the original recipe. Matching a color pigment that has been around for 70 years has proven more difficult for the business than losing any clientele.
The aesthetic of the store strikes the resemblance of the original stand. The pinstripe awning extends itself as shade for customers dripping ice on their hands in the peak of the summer. The gold plate hanging above the storefront is an original installation from when Lemon Ice King first planted themselves in the heart of Corona, shining the number of flavors that increases every couple of years and the Benfaremo logo. Instead of selling themselves short by fixing the crack on the floor or by maximizing their profits by using top line puree over their fruits, the business has stuck to Pete Benfaremo’s script: natural fruit in their ices that are never to be mixed.
“I don’t care if we sell pistachio or chocolate as long as someone is buying it,” said Mr. Barbaccia.