Let’s Talk Trash!
New York City has always been renowned for its bleak split personality: the utterly rich versus the excessively poor. The rich-poor gap is about as blatant as the difference between a Marc Jacob’s tote and a garbage bag—or is it? In a recent New York Times article, “Trash Bags You Won’t Throw Out,” Eric Wilson describes the hottest and trashiest trends appearing this fall.
Our favorite top designers, including Marc Jacobs, have recently offered fashion a slice of humble pie. With dresses that look like cardboard cutouts, handbags that appear to be embellished trash bags, and clutches that resemble takeout containers—the lines between “high end” and “means to an end” will become somewhat indistinct as New Yorkers parade this reverse attire.
But was this revolution intentional? It goes both ways. When approached at his Paris showroom, J. W. Anderson, somewhat surprised, had to agree that the pleating of his leather tunics did resemble cardboard. The semblance was unintentional, related only to the influence of designer Issey Miyake and Anderson’s respect for him—but other designers made no secret of their purpose. Although he would never call his designs garbage bags, Alber Elbaz detests the notion of ‘it’ bags and often designs luxury trash bags to express that contempt. It seems the only designer who openly acknowledged the garbage-like theme was Giambattista Valli. His collection featured a cardboard dress (made of printed silk) with a simple rope belt (actually made of bronze). He said that the films of Pier Paolo Pasolini, who shared Valli’s delight in tormenting the bourgeoisie, inspired the piece.
Whether or not the affect was intentional, I find myself excited for the fall fashion. The looks are both boldly humble and boundary breaking, and it will be riveting to watch as high-society New Yorkers embrace the style of their lower and perhaps more fashionable half.